I have a three week old MKIII standard with the same problems. The gun was designed for ease of manufacture in order to be low cost. Breakdown maintenance was secondary. Don't expect to not need rudimentary tools to break it down.
I found several problem areas:
-The capture pin (bolt stop pin) on the hammer spring assembly was way too tight- I had to use vicegrips and a lot of cursing to extract it.
-The barrel/receiver assembly must have been put on by Tarzan. I needed a padded claw hammer to release it. It was struck hard a number of times before it let go. It was one notch short of being welded on.
-The planets had to be aligned to reinstall the pin. More cursing again...
- I used emery paper and a rat tailed file to SLIGHTLY open up the three holes for the capture pin.
- I beveled the top of the capture pin that faces the recoil spring fork to aid reassembly.
- I beveled the 'tit' on the recoil spring fork to aid reassembly.
- I used a small Dremel disc stone to remove a SMALL amount of metal under the 'foot' that captures the barrel assembly. And I applied a touch of grease. Note the under surface is curved, so that is possible that when you bang the barrel back on, it will be tilted slightly. Make sure the notch on the rear is the same on both sides of the frame. If the capture pin slides through all three holes when installed from the TOP- you are okay.
Reassembly is somewhat easier now: I still have to use a plastic hammer to get the barrel back on, but it only takes two or three whacks now.
It is still a pain to get the pin to go back in all the way, requiring a hammer whack from below for the final 1/8 in.
And you may need to use some medical forceps to put the hammer link in the proper position. It tends to get hung up behind a pin and you can't draw back the bolt when all is reassembled, since the hammer is up and blocking it. The hammer link needs to swing free and be in the 'cup' or small recess when you close/lock the mainspring assembly.
I still have not memorized when an empty magazine needs to be used or when the trigger has to be pulled during the procedures. But then I wasn't good at Rubic's cube, either.
There is an outfit at http://www.majesticarms.com/
that sells a "speed strip" kit for the Ruger which consists of a two piece capture pin which can be unscrewed from the top to aid extracting the bolt. Also included is a new hammer with a beveled edge. It's not cheap, but I have ordered one that should be here this week and I will report on it.
Until then, I'll continue to use the plastic hammer, pin drift and forceps (and notes) to break down and reassemble the gun. I have heard that if it gets as loose as what they demonstrate in the factory breakdown videos, the accuracy suffers.
OBTW- a small piece of printed circuit board with a rectangular slot cut in it makes a fine speed loader.
Enjoy- It does shoot nicely...