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EDIT: Isn't that just how it always goes. I search and search, then post this and two minutes later find this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... mid=375177

Allright, I have a model 36 "chief's special" that I'm having fits over. The gun is nice, handles well for being so small, and is easy to carry- thing is, i can't hit squat with it.

The DA pull on the trigger is so heavy that as I squeeze the trigger the gun visibly twists to the right and points to the left. I don't have a pull scale, but I'd rate it around "obscene" :roll:

SA is better, but still a lot heavier than I like; especially for how light the gun is.

Is there a direct adjustment to lighten the trigger, and if not are there lighter available mainsprings for the gun? I've done some looking, but all I've found as of yet are direct replacement S&W springs.

I'm not looking for anything crazy light, just something I can actually use.

Justin
 

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I DO NOT KNOW IF ANY COMPANY MAKES A LIGHTER TRIGGER SPRING. I HAVE A MODEL 36 AS WELL AS A MODEL 37 AIRWEIGHT FIRST MODEL.

MY RUGER SP 101 ALSO FEELS PREETY MUCH THE SAME AS THE SMITHS. TRUTH I THINK I LIKE THE SMITHS BETTER.

I WANTED TO TELL YOU ABOUT A LITTLE SECRET I FOUND OUT ABOUT SHOOTING THESE SNUB TYPE GUNS. IMAGINE WHAT EVER YOUR TARGET IS AS BEING A CLOCK ON THE WALL.

BIG TARGET, BIG CLOCK. SMALL TARGET,SMALL CLOCK. NOW WHEN YOU AIM TRY TO TOP OFF YOUR POST AND REAR SIGHTS MAKING SURE THEY ARE ONE LEVEL LINE. NEXT PUT THIS AIMING SEQUENCE AT 6 OCLOCK ON YOUR TARGET. IF MY LOGIC HOLDS TRUE, YOU SHOULD BE HITTING THE BULLSEYE.

WORKS EASIER IN SINGLE ACTION MODE, BUT IN TIME AND PRACTICE YOU CAN DO PREETY WELL IN DOUBLE. I WOULD PUT TARGET OUT TO LIKE 10-15 YRDS OR SO TO START. BUT IT SHOULD ALSO WORK FARTHER OUT TO 20 OR 25 YARDS.

THESE ARE CLOSE QUARTER GUNS OF COURSE BUT YOU MAY SURPRISE YOURSELF. i THINK IT HAS SOMETHING O DO WITH THE RISE OR SUBCONSIOUS LIFTING OF THE FRONT BARREL WHEN YOU PULL THE TRIGGER.

REMEMBER TO USE THE PAD OF YOUR FINGER BEFORE THE FIRST CREASE OF YOUR KNUCKLE ON THE TRIGER FINGER AND PUSH DONT PULL STRAIGHT IN.

THIS IS HOW I ACQUIRED THESE 2 SMITHS. I USE TO WORK AT AN INDOOR RANGE AND I WILL WITNESS OTHERS FRUSTRATION IN SHOOTING WITH NOT SO GOOD RESULTS WITH THE SNUBS. THEY SEEM TO BE MAKING A COMEBACK NOWADAYS, YEARS AGO THE AUTO CRAZE AS IT WAS CREATED AN OPERTUNITY TO PICK THESE GUNS UP AT A BARGAIN. ESPECIALLY IF THET WERE NOT +P RATED.

GOOD LUCK AND I HOPE THIS WAS HELPFUL AND WITH ALL DUE RESPECT I DID NOT MEAN TO LECTURE IN ANY WAY. FOR THIS WAS NOT MY INTENT.

P.S - I LOVE THESE GUNS, CONCEALABILITY AND 100% RELIABLE. AND THEY HAVE CAME A LONG WAY IN MAKING SOME NON +P AMMO THAT HAS SOME GOOD STOPPING POWER.

HAVE FUN JACK, jUSTIN I JUST SAW A POST SAYING IF ANYONE TRIED THE WOLF SPRINGS IN THIER J-FRAME. MEMBERS NAME WAS MOSES, GOOD LUCK
 

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THere was a recent post on the gunsmith site addressing this and the one guy really had it right... There is a lot to polish inside a smith but the main thing to change your trigger pull would be to put a 12lb trigger return spring in the hammer block....I tried the Wolf reduced hammer spring and used the factory one instead..Sometimes you can cut the hammer spring, works best on the .22, a turn and half but you run the risk of misfires...My snub is super smooth but I polished it all and used the 12lb. spring. Luck..
 
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