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Is Rem Action safe to use on blued guns? I used it on my AR15 and it works wonderfully but left the metal incredibly dry. Will Rem Action harm bluing?
 

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I haven't used it but suspect it is much the same as automotive carb and choke cleaner which is a less expensive version of Gun Scrubber. As long as the ingredients don't include ammonia I wouldn't worry about using it. Ammonia reacts very poorly with aluminium causing it to spall. Ammonia is also noted to remove bluing, some types more so than others. I do run an oiled cloth over the gun after using any type of cleaner as they do remove the natural oils off metal surfaces. After letting it sit for several minutes I'll gently and quickly rub the gun down to remove excess oil. I haven't had a rust problem I could attribute to doing this yet.
 

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I forgot another reason to oil all metal parts after using any cleaner is to neutralize the cleaning solution. Some of the cleaning solutions can etch the metal or leach out elements if not neutralized. Copper cleaners (ammonia and non-ammonia based) and stainless steel are best known for this but a few other solvents can do this too. Unfortunately, the better the solvent, the more likely this can happen. Running patches down the bore until dry or wiping the outer surfaces well with a clean rag followed by running a patch with gun oil of some sort down the barrel, letting it sit, and following up with another dry patch will take care of neutralizing the solvent and protecting the barrel from rust. The outside can get a light coating of oil then a wipe down with clean cloth.
 

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Re: re: Rem Action cleaner

uglydog said:
I haven't used it but suspect it is much the same as automotive carb and choke cleaner which is a less expensive version of Gun Scrubber. As long as the ingredients don't include ammonia I wouldn't worry about using it. Ammonia reacts very poorly with aluminium causing it to spall. Ammonia is also noted to remove bluing, some types more so than others. I do run an oiled cloth over the gun after using any type of cleaner as they do remove the natural oils off metal surfaces. After letting it sit for several minutes I'll gently and quickly rub the gun down to remove excess oil. I haven't had a rust problem I could attribute to doing this yet.
Ammonia is also very bad news on Steel alloys either in concert with certain other solvents and or if left in the bore for too long,
and the too long is dependant on the particular alloy and the particular solvent but if left in the bore overnight any bore will be frosty clean, as in micro-crystalline stress fracturing ( a ruined bore) one that will be a horrendous fouler from then on.

To be on the safe side when using any Copper Solvent containing Ammonia I limit the dwell / contact time to less that 10 minutes Max, and I'd never use any Copper Solvent with another Bore cleaning solvent period, with the exception of J.B. Probst which cleans by abrasion (4000 grit crushed Garnet in a grease suspension) the J.B. will cut through the hardened primer, powder fouling as well as the jacket wash
exposing fresh jacket wash for the Sweets 7.62 (The Copper
Solvent I prefer) to nail it.

Proper barrel break in is critical to conditioning a bore so
it'll have very minimal fouling characteristics.(and a very long life)

When I'm done with the Sweets I'll run a wet (water) patch down bore to neutralize any of the residual Ammonia including that which is in the pores, then an alcohol soaked patch to remove any residual moisture, it'll combine with the moisture and evaporate carrying it away..

I use LPS 2 or 3 to prevent rust and then chase out the LPS with Aerosol Brake cleaner before I shoot.

Regards J. T. Hut
 
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