[Fuelburns2]

I found a S&W mod 67 in the used gun case today for $250. It looked like it was stainless (not nickel) with a four inch barrel. My understanding is that the 67 is the same as the model 10, only stainless instead of blue. Is this correct? What issues should I look for when I go back tomorrow to look it over?

 

[Paul F.]

That's a good price!

1. Check that the various stamps and logo etchings are visible.

2. For value, check the serial numbers and the numbers on the grips.

3. Check that the sights are original.

This effects value.

4. Check the rifling and check for burn marks at the cyl and muzzle.

5. Check for trigger and hammer wobble and really check the cyl for movement when locked.

6. Check the ejector rod for wobble... but, also for sticking.

Any of these can be indicators of +P or hot handloads.

Finally, check the tracking mark on the cyl. The closer to center on the ratchet grooves the better.

Okay, this is all I know. :?

 

[Fuelburns2]

Would I check every cylinder for movement when locked or is one enough?

Thanks for the tips Paul. I hope I can finish work early enough tomorrow to get another purchase permit and get back to the gun. I think it would look great with stag grips.

 

[Paul F.]

Never thought to check the cyl in different positions. Sure wouldn't hurt. :wink:

I saw a pair of checkered ebony grips on a stainless, just recently. WOW! Looks so good I might have to try them myself. Oh... save up... they were $175!

For Stag... check with Tusker on FFF. His prices rock! :wink:

 

[Fuelburns2]

I never thought of ebony grips. The price sounds a little high for my taste.

Assuming the gun is worth buying to begin with I may just have to explore my options on accessories.

 

[ElMonoDelMar]

Not too long ago I read an article on buying buying used revolvers; the author suggested checking ALL cylinder positions for play.

 

[Fuelburns2]

I'll check them all just to be sure.

I was just on Smith-Wesson.com and noticed the model 67 has adjustable rear sights. That would mean it is not the same as the model 10. Are there any other differences?

Is this a K or L frame?

 

[Paul F.]

It is a K frame. Take a look at all these K Frames, here:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/4071080521

Yours is at 11:00!

 

[Fuelburns2]

That's the hottest picture I've ever seen. :shock:

 

[Paul F.]

I know... I'm green with envy and feeling like a pauper. Got any idea how much you're looking at to duplicate that photo? :shock:

 

[Fuelburns2]

Assuming the guns average $600 each and the one in the case is $1000 that would be $7,000. :shock: Pauper sounds about right for me too. :?

BTW Did you ever find a K-22?

 

[Paul F.]

I have found several... in great condition... starting at $750 on up to $1350. I could never bring myself to pay that for a .22 - even if it is identical to my Dad's.

This one's for sale at +95% for $789 firm. I want it so bad I can taste it.

 

[Fuelburns2]

I'll keep my eyes open and let you know if I find one for a better price.

 

[Paul F.]

Thanks! Right now I have the Tracker in .45LC inbound and am wheeling on two 90% Model 10's of no historic value for $200 a piece... one in nickle and the other blue.

I love the Model of 1905 and Model 10's. The tracker fills a need for a woods gun... which was my old Anaconda. 17 handguns disappeared in my divorce, seven years ago. I'm just building up now. :?

 

[Fuelburns2]

This one's for sale at +95% for $789 firm. I want it so bad I can taste it.

That's how I feel about a mint 6" Anaconda. I found a few in great condition for about $700-$800 online but the price still hurts especially after shipping and transfer fee. I'm selling a shotgun on SGW to help pay for it. Sometimes that's the best way get what is really important. PM me if you have anything you want to sell. I've pretty well decided on my next few purchases but if I'm interested I may help finance that K-22.

 

[Paul F.]

I may get rid of a Brazilian S&W in .45 acp soon. 4" barrel and in about a high 85%. It's a shooter, not a wall hanger. I also have a duplicate of the Model of 1905 to decide on. It's in high 90% and has original grips, in walnut.

I'll let you know after I talk to this guy from W. Michigan. :wink:

 

[uglydog]

The M-67 is merely a 4" stainless version of the M-15. S&W had the maddening tendency to assign different model numbers to the fixed and adjustable sight versions of the same gun and even those with different front ramps. Add in another number for stainless. The difference is that the 67 should have an adjustable trigger stop.
In the convoluted reasoning of S&W, the M-67 is the stainless version of the M-15 which is the adjustable sight version of the M-10. The stainless version of the M-10 is the M-64. Give it an alloy frame and it becomes the M-12. If the M-10 were to have adjustable rear sight but keep the front sight and come with a 6" or 8 3/8" barrel it would be called the M-14. I'm shocked they don't have separate model numbers for the square and round butts. Do you suppose they ran out of fingers and toes?

 

[Fuelburns2]

:? Now I'm confused, but I have a really cool revolver! I don't see a trigger stop on this M67-1 though.

 

[uglydog]

"Now I'm confused"

Welcome to the club!! S&W has one of the most convoluted means of determining model numbers I have ever seen. I'll try to simplify what I wrote later.
The full name of your gun is the "K-38 Combat Masterpiece, M-67". The blued version is the ".38 Combat Masterpiece, M-15" This differs from the ".38 Military & Police, M-10" by having adjustable rear sights and a different style front ramp and an adjustable trigger stop. I don't remember if the stop is accessable from the outside of the gun or not but if it is, it should be found behind the trigger about were it enters the frame. I think it uses an Allen key or maybe a small screwdriver and is actually an internal stop rather than an external. I'm going off recollection and an old poster so my sources aren't very detailed.
The target model of the M-15 was the K-38 Masterpeice, M-14 which came with a 6" or 8 3/8" barrel and the Partridge style front sight of the M-10 for about $10 more in the late 60s/early 70s. It also came in a single action only version which surprisingly was still called the M-14 but Single Action is added to the name.
The M-10 you are familiar with but the alloy version is known as the .38 Military & Police (Airweight), M-12, both came in square and round butt versions.
Your M-67 is a vastly upgraded M-64 (stainless M-10) which added about $20 to the price of the M-64, $35 to a M-10 back when the MSRP for a M-10 was a little over $100.
Popular options that were available include target hammer (rather braod and lower than normal with deep checkering), target trigger which was wide and grooved, and target stocks which were generally a little wider and often had a thumb rest of some sort. Other than police issued guns, I think these options were pretty much standard on privately purchased guns, at least the ones I recall seeing.
In any event, you have a very nice gun, one that should bring many years of enjoyment to you.

 

[Fuelburns2]

Thanks for the details on Smith's naming conventions. Now I'll have to try to find one of each.

At $250 this gun was a steal. The grips are almost certainly not original but the gun itself is in great condition. There is a small spot of pitting on the left side near the grip and a speck of rust on the trigger. Overall I'd call this gun maybe 88%. I'm surprised at how light the trigger is compared to my Colt and it locks up very tight. There is almost no play in the cylinder at all in any direction. I'll see if I can get pictures up tonight.