[Fuelburns2]

My S&W 629 has what appear to be either scorch marks or carbon buildup on the exterior of the cylinder near the front. What would you recommend to clean this up? I prefer something I could use on my blued guns as well, so please nothing abrasive enough to damage bluing. Hoppes #9 and nitro bore solvent both failed to wipe it off.

 

[semiauto]

I don't know of anything that won't hurt blued finishes but if you go to your local auto parts store you can find solvents that remove the blue and yellow marks that form on exhaust pipes on motorcycles. It should work on Stainless revolvers because it is the same process! There is a link to a website for a bottle of blue away that does this:

http://www.hmcycle.com/webstore/viewite ... e=viewprod

 

[Fuelburns2]

Each cylinder has the same mark.

 

[Fuelburns2]

I found something that works exceptionally well. Kleen Bore Lead Away gun cleaning cloths. One wipe removed all of the carbon build up. Semi, I bet this would be great for your Nickel model 10. I'll let you try it soon. A little goes a long way.

 

[semiauto]

Sounds nice, my thumbs are sore from trying to remove it with plain oil.

 

[BigDog]

I've used Barnes CR-10 cleaner - with good results on the outside of the cylinder - but the scorch marks on the end of the cylinder are very difficult to remove.

I also shoot a shotgun product - shooter's choice shotgun and and choke tube cleaner. It comes in a 12oz spray can for about $ 10 - $12 and it works pretty well too for general cleaning ( I've given up on the old Hoppes #9). This won't harm a blued finish either.

 

[Dixie Slugs]

Friends All....We have used Flitz paste (not the liquid) for years to remove carbon on handguns. It is also great in rifle and pistol [email protected] Slugs

 

[Fuelburns2]

Do not use the Lead Away cloths on a blued gun! Bluing comes right off very quickly.

Dixie Slugs, is Flitz paste abrasive enough to damage bluing?

 

[Dixie Slugs]

I first saw Flitz demo'ed at a merchandise show many years ago. They were using it to also clean blued guns. I've used it and it does not seem to hurt. Flitz also has a chemical in it that supposed to help perseve the finish, if the gun not cleaned with any solvents after wiping the Flitz off. We have used it for years also cleaning out rifle barrels and preping new barrels.....Regards, James

 

[wired]

I've heard of people using brake cleaner for stuff like that as well. If that doesn't clean something, nothing will :shock: . I'd almost be afraid of using that on a blued cylinder, though.

I get good results from Hoppe's Benchrest copper formula. It's a bit stronger than #9, it would seem. I wipe it on, let it settle in for a little while, and then a little toothbrush action takes care of the rest. It's more expensive than #9, though.

 

[pumpgun]

I've had this issue with a S&W 617, and the best thing I've found are the newer bore cleaners, ie. Hoppe's Elite, and Gunslick Ultra-Klenz.

 

[killerb]

I have a 640, 629, and a 617. You get some nasty powder fouling on the front of the cylinder and the underside of the topstrap just above the forcing cone. My 617 seems to be particularly bad. Maybe its because I shoot it the most, or its because of the waxy lubricant on rimfire bullets. Whatever the case, on stainless guns, I use a good powder solvent and a bronze bristled brush. That usually does the trick. I got my brush from the local gun shop, its like a toothbrush, just with bronze bristles instead of plastic. I use Shooter's Choice solvent, though I am sure there are others that will work as well. A little chunk of 0000 steel wool soaked in solvent gets the stubborn stuff off. I have used fine steel wool (000 or 0000) soaked with oil or solvent, even on blued steel. You have to be careful and not use too much pressure, but I have removed surface rust from poorly maintained or improperly stored firearms that way without harming the blueing.

 

[Vetteman]

I use "Nevr Dull" cotton wadding polish (Walmart) It seems to do a good job on removing the racoon eyes on my stainless 686.

 

[UncleFudd]

If you want simplicity in cleaning then use the "lead away" you literally just wipe off the bad stuff.

But as said it is not to be used on blue guns.

For blue the easiest are as mentioned, Flitz has always been good just no one has heard of it the same with Nevr dull. It can be used with the finest jewelry and not harm or mark it and it will clean anything you want to get off quite well.

The other and the one we use at the range for all the guns we have to clean there in our rental counter (currently about 50 guns, rifle, pistol and SG) is the MPRO 7.
It is biodegradable, does not stink, looks like soapy water but a cleaner of guns it is most definately.

No matter how dirty they get this stuff cleans them out.
I usually spray a little in or on and let it set for a few miniutes and then squirt it again and clean just as you clean every other gun in you r home nothing different.

UF

 

[claybird]

Vetteman. What dept. in WM did you find the Nevr-dull cleaner??

 

[Pair o 686's]

Flitz works the best out of all that I've tried... on stainless finishes. I don't own a blued gun so I cannot comment there.